There’s nothing quite like a row of gorgeous, lush zinnias growing all Summer long! These beautiful flowers grace my dinning room table every day. Zinnias are one of the easiest cut flowers to grow, and they will be one you turn to again and again. Here we’ll go over how to successfully grow Zinnias.
What you need to know:
Location
Soil
Germination and growth
Fertilizer
Maintenance
Potential problems
Before we get started on the how-to grow Zinnias, let’s take just a second to talk about the why-you-should.
Zinnias are a wonderful cut flower, and they make a wonderful addition to any bouquet.
Zinnias are non-toxic. What a relief that is for so many pet owners and farmers who want to grow lovely things, but find that many of the flowers we grow can harm our animals.
Zinnias, when planted in our vegetable gardens, draw in beneficial insects and pollinators. Their bright colors invite all the honeybees and butterflies to the location, and our vegetable plants welcome that!
Alrighty, let’s get started!
Location
Zinnias are a sun loving, heat loving flower. The more sunshine the better. Ideally these plants need at least 6-8 hours of sun a day.
When deciding where to plant, you’ll want to pick a spot that is full sun and has well drained soil. Planting in raised beds and pots is an option, however Zinnias have a large root system and do best if planted in the ground. That certainly doesn’t mean that they won’t do well in a pot! Just that, to really thrive, they need plenty of root space.
Soil
Zinnias are not picky, they grow very well in almost any soil condition. But if you want whats ideal for your plants, you need a well-drained soil. Zinnias can handle lack very well, but they appreciate a light, balanced fertilizer.
Germination and Growth
Zinnias can be started indoors a few weeks before your outside temps reach 70 degrees. Or you can direct sow outdoors after temps are consistently in the 70s and above.
To germinate, seeds need the temperature to be between 70-75 degrees or higher. They will start to peek out in 4-7 days. It’s very important to keep the soil consistently moist during this time.
Zinnias grow very fast! From germination to first flower is only about 2 months.
Once your plants have their first and second set of true leaves, you can pinch the tops to help the plant bush out more and produce more flowers. This isn’t a necessary step, but it certainly helps. This is how you do it…
Once your seedling has at least two sets of true leaves (the first set of round leaves when it germinates are not “true leaves”), you can pinch or cut the top of the plant, just below the top set of leaves. It will cause it to branch out to the sides, thus producing a bushier plant and more blooms.
Fertilizer
Zinnias don’t require a rich soil, but they appreciate a light fertilizer. When they are seedlings, a small application of fish emulsion is great, and then at around 4-5 weeks you can side dress with a basic 5-5-5 fertilizer for even bigger and healthier blooms.
Maintenance
Zinnias are cut and come again flowers. The more you cut, the more blooms they grow. It’s important to “deadhead” or cut blooms regularly, to encourage continual growth. When cutting your blooms, you want to snip under the first set of leaves on the stem, near the V. As shown below.
Zinnias don’t like their roots to stay wet, the soil needs to dry out a little between watering. I like to do a deep water every 2-3 days.
If you want to save seeds for the next year, allow a few blooms to stay on the plant and completely dry out. This you’ll want to do near the end of the growing season. Zinnias are not perennials, they don’t come back every year. However, they often reseed themselves. But it’s no guarantee, so I always make sure to save some seeds from my favorite plants.
Potential Problems
While Zinnias are very hardy plants, they can sometimes have a few issues.
If your Zinnias have leaf discoloration or limp leaves, that can be a sign of over-watering.
If your Zinnias have developed brown spots on their leaves, it can be a sign of nutrient imbalances, bacteria or fungal issues, or Foliar Nematodes (tiny worms).
In that case, I like to apply a spray mixture to my plants. I make it myself, it’s super easy! In a little bowl I mix 2 tablespoons of Neem Oil and 2 tablespoons of soap. Then I add it to a gallon of water in a sprayer.
The Neem Oil takes care of the bugs, and the soap (I use Sal Suds) takes care of the bacteria or fungal issues. Plus the soap is a carrier and aids in mixing the oil with the water.
Successfully growing Zinnias is as easy as that! And if you want to learn more, I have a post on How-To Grow Sunflowers that you can check out. Happy growing!
There is nothing quite like a fresh from the garden, tender-crisp green bean. That is something you can enjoy all year long, if you blanch and freeze your fresh green beans.
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if a purchase is made through a link
Why Blanch & Freeze instead of Canning?
Y’all, Imma be honest with you. I don’t like mushy green beans. The ones from the can? No, thank you. I like mine crisp, slightly tender, bright green, with just a little butter and salt.
If soft, fully-cooked beans are your thing, then be all means, can away. And I know, canning is more practical than freezing. It lasts longer, doesn’t use plastic bags, and you don’t have to rely on electricity.
However, if you’re in it for the “fresh from the garden” taste in the middle of December, then blanching and freezing is the way to go.
Can I Freeze Fresh Green Beans Without Blanching First?
Technically, yes. If you don’t mind dull and mushy green beans. Blanching will stop enzyme activity that causes the deteriorating of texture, flavor and color of vegetables. Without that step, you’ll end up with a not so appetizing bunch of beans that, while completely edible, are not the “fresh from the garden” crisp and green.
How-To Blanch and Freeze Green Beans
Snap (or chop) the ends off your beans and break them into your desired size. This is a great job for kids! Mine love helping snap beans.
Using a colander, give them a good rinse.
Now you need to get everything set up. The next process goes pretty quick.
Add four quarts of water and one tablespoon of salt to a pot and bring to a boil.
Fill a large bowl with lots of ice and water.
Have a utensil ready to remove the beans from the boiling water and into the ice bath. I like to use a stainless steel Spider Strainer.
Have a kitchen towel handy to put under a colander.
Prepare your freezer bags. I use quart size, because that’s a prefect serving size for our family meal. I use a sharpie to write the date on them.
Ok, here we go…
Step 1.
Add some beans to your boiling water. Don’t over-fill the pot. I add about 2 quarts worth of beans at a time.
Step 2.
Boil for 2-3 minutes.
Step 3.
Remove beans and immediately put them into the bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process.
Step 4.
Allow the beans to sit in the ice water for a minute or two, then transfer to a clean colander.
Step 5.
At this point, you can spread your beans on a towel to dry before bagging if you want to. I do not. I just go straight from colander to freezer bag.
You can also flash freeze your beans before bagging, if desired. Simply spread them on a cookie sheet and place them in the freezer for an hour. Then remove and bag. But again, I do not. I’m all about keeping it simple and effective.
Step 6.
Once you have bagged your beans, lay them flat, label and stack’em in the freezer.
Now repeat the steps for however many batches of beans you have. This is a process that I do every couple of days once my green beans start producing.
The beans will last 10-12 months in the freezer.
How To Use Your Frozen Green Beans
To prepare, simply add frozen beans to boiling water for 5-7 minutes, then drain, and add some butter, salt and pepper.
You can also toss the frozen beans straight into sautes, stir-fries, soups, etc.
One of the easiest things to grow in your garden is cucumbers. And who doesn’t love cucumbers?? Sliced fresh on a salad, turned into pickles and relishes, or as a refreshing juice. Cucumbers are delicious, healthy, and fun to grow. Here are the basics of how to grow your own cucumbers.
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if a purchase is made through a link.
What Kind of Cucumber should you Grow?
First things first. There are over 100 types of cucumbers! So, step one is to choose what kind you’ll be growing. Decide what you want them for, and then research what varieties will work best for your end goals. Some kinds are great for slicing, and others for pickling. You may decide to grow several different types. But no matter what kind you plant, the basics of growing them are the same.
How Many Cucumber Plants do you Need?
The typical rule is, 1-2 cucumber plants per person. However, this really depends on the type of cucumbers you’re growing and the purpose of those cucumbers.
Your average slicing cucumber will produce about 10 fruits per vine, over the season. And if picked regularly, one plant will provide more than enough cucumbers to eat fresh for one person.
Pickling cucumbers are much more prolific. They provide double the yield of the slicing cucumbers. You will need to pick every day or two, and the frequency will encourage more production. One pickling cucumber plant can give you up to 20-25 pounds of cucumbers in a season.
And keep in mind, trellising your cucumber plants will give you more fruit. It keeps them off the ground and away from bugs and rot.
How to Prepare Your Soil for Cucumbers
Cucumbers grow in many types of soil. But they thrive in loose, well-drained, rich soils.
Your soil should be at a pH of 6.0-7.0. The location should be full sun.
Before planting, mix aged manure or compost into the top 4-6 inches of soil. Cucumbers are heavy feeders, and prefer a large amount of organic matter. About 2 inches worth, and then worked into the soil.
If you don’t have access to manure or compost, an organic fertilizer is another option. I like to use: Jobe’s Organics. You want a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium. Follow the directions on the bag for the amount you should add to your soil per square foot.
Planting Your Cucumber Seeds
Cucumbers do best when direct sown. This can be done 2-3 weeks after your last frost date. Your soil should be above 60 degrees F., and outside temperatures should be consistently above 50 degrees F.
You can, however, start them in pots inside 3-4 weeks before your last frost. But they do not like their roots disturbed, so transplanting is tricky. If you do decide to go this route, starting the seeds in peat pots that can later be planted entirely in the garden is the best option.
When direct sowing, plant your seeds 1 inch deep and 2-3 feet apart. Most varieties are vining, and will do best if trellised. Bush varieties can be grown in rows spaced 3-5 feet apart.
Water your seeds deeply, once a day, until germination. If your outside temperatures are 80-90 degrees, your seeds can sprout in as little as 3 days. But if the weather is cooler, it can take up to 10 days to germinate.
Caring for your Cucumber Plants
Once your seedlings have their first sets of true leaves, it’s time to mulch. They will need 1 inch thick of leaves, straw or wood chips.
When your cucumber plants get their first flowers, it’s helpful to side-dress them with something. This means to feed them some more, and boost their growth. You can add more compost or manure around your plants, or another bit of fertilizer.
Cucumbers need to be watered 3-4 times a week. Deeply. They need at least an inch a week. But be careful not to overwater. The best practice is to check the soil. If the top 2 inches are dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still moist just under the surface, it’s good.
Your cucumber plants may struggle with pests, but there are a few natural ways to control those. At the early stages, I like to use a neem oil spray. Mix 1 tablespoon neem oil and 1 tablespoon liquid soap, and add that to a gallon of water in a pump sprayer. (I will link exactly what I use below.) I spray it on my plants in the late evening, after all the pollinators are gone.
Once your plants have set fruit, you will want a different form of pest management. Diatomaceous Earth does the best job. Sprinkle it on in the evenings, after the pollinators are gone for the night. Try to avoid getting it inside any open flowers.
How Long until I can Harvest my Cucumbers?
Most cucumber varieties will be ready to start harvesting 50-70 days from planting. Cucumbers taste best when picked early, before they get too “seedy”. The bigger it gets, the more bitter it can get.
Store your cucumbers at room temperature for up to 5 days. If you’re pickling them, try to do it the same day that you pick. The fresher the cucumber, the crispier it will be.
Sunflowers are some of the easiest flowers to grow. They are heat tolerant, pest resistant and fast growing. These flowers are not only beautiful, but they can repair/detox soil, provide shade in your garden, and attract all kinds of beneficial pollinators. Here are the basics of growing sunflowers…
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if a purchase is made through a link.
Choosing the Sunflower that’s Best for You
Y’all, did you know that there are over 70 types of sunflowers? I know when you think “sunflower”, you think a medium size yellow flower with a black center. Your typical Helianthus. Which, fun fact, is a Greek word that means: Helios – “Sun”, and Anthos – “Flower”. Hence, “Sunflower”.
But if you start looking, you’ll find that there are so many more verities!
Sunflowers come in all sizes and colors. They can be perennials or annuals. There are giants and dwarfs. So, picking a kind that works the best for your space is important.
Your average sunflower grows to about 9-10 feet tall. A giant type can get up to 15-20 feet tall. And the dwarf kinds are about 1-2 feet tall, sometimes up to 4 feet.
It’s also important to note that if you’re growing sunflowers to cut and display, you will need to choose a verity that is pollen-less. Those are typically labeled “pro-cut” flowers.
In my garden, I use a mix of sunflowers. I plant dwarf verities next to my pole beans, to draw pollinators (and because it looks pretty!). I plant average and giant verities near my tomato plants, to give them a little relief from the sun and because they help repel aphids. I also have a few areas where I plant some sunflowers just for cutting, and I use them to boarder one section of my garden.
I also like to plant all kinds of colors!
How to Plant Sunflower Seeds
Sunflowers grow in pretty much any soil condition, although they prefer well-drained. And they also need full sun.
Sunflowers do best when direct sown. Although you can start them indoors a few weeks before your last frost, to give them a head start.
When direct sowing, make sure to plant after all danger of frost is gone. Your soil should be at least 50 degrees F. Plant seeds 1 – 1 ½ inches deep and 6 inches apart. Later you will thin them to 12 inches apart.
Keep your soil moist to germinate.
Most sunflowers take 80-100 days from germination to first bloom.
When to Water your Sunflowers
Once your seeds have germinated, their water needs change. Sunflowers only need about an inch of water a week. They like to dry out between waterings.
If your sunflower leaves are turning yellow and brown, they’re overwatered. If the soil is moist and they’re wilting as well, it’s probably gotten to the point of root rot.
If your sunflower leaves are dry and crispy, they are not getting enough water.
1-2 times a week, deeply water your sunflowers. Like, really well. You want the top 6 inches of soil good and moist. It’s best to do this in the morning. Then let them dry out for a few days to a week before watering again.
If you are having really hot and dry weather, they will need more water, more often. But just keep an eye on their soil and leaves, and they’ll tell you what they need.
Once, every few weeks, you can add some liquid fertilizer and give them a little boost. Or, in the first few weeks of growth, you can use a granular fertilizer for a slow-release feed over the life of your sunflower.
Enjoying your Sunflowers all Summer
Sunflower blooms will last about 3-4 weeks. Most sunflowers only bloom once. So, if you want to enjoy flowers until Fall, you can sow sunflower seeds every few weeks throughout the Spring and Summer.
Saving their seeds is so easy! Allow the sunflower head to stay on the plant until all the petals have fallen off. Next, you’re going to cut the head off and hang it to dry for a few weeks. You’ll probably need to find a spot where the birds won’t steal your seeds right out of the flower head.
Now that they have dried, the seeds will pop right out. If the seeds are plump and full, they should be viable. Store your seeds in a paper bag or envelope until next Spring. Keeping them in paper ensures that they won’t mold, if the seeds were not completely dry.
Or, you can feed the flower heads to your chickens or birds. They love them!
And don’t forget about yourself! Sunflower seeds are delicious. You can save them, shell them and enjoy raw, roasted or in a dish.
Whether you have grown your own from seeds, or purchased them ready to go, there are a few things you need to know when it comes time to transplant tomato seedlings into your garden. Let’s talk soil, fertilizer and mulch…
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if a purchase is made through a link
Choosing the Perfect Spot to Plant Tomatoes
Tomatoes like a rich, well-drained soil in a sunny spot. These plants need “full sun”, which means a minimum of 8-10 hours of sunlight a day.
However, there is such a thing as “too much” sun. Tomato plants actually appreciate a bit of shade during the hot summer months.
If you have a spot that is shaded in the late afternoon, or possibly a spot that gets all the morning and evening sun, but directly overhead is slightly shaded, that’s perfection.
You can also achieve a bit of sun relief for your tomatoes by planting sunflowers next to them. Sunflowers grow tall and their large leaves help filter the direct sunlight for your other plants. (Plus, sunflowers improve your soil!)
Preparing Soil for Tomato Seedlings
Tomatoes like a well-turned soil. Till the area a good 8-12 inches deep. If planting in a raised bed, an electric or hand tiller work well.
(Tomatoes like soil that is slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.2-6.8.)
Next, you’ll want to till in a rich compost or a composted manure.
A rich compost will add nutrients and improve the structure of the soil.
Composted manure gives a slow release of nutrients over the entire growing season of the plant.
Personally, I use rabbit and cow manure. Rabbit manure is a “cold” manure, which means it doesn’t need to compost before using it and it won’t burn your plants. Cow manure isn’t very “hot”, but it still needs to be older/composted before using it for your tender tomato seedlings.
Another good amendment is wood ash. It is a great source of potassium.
Organic coffee grounds are another soil amendment your tomato plants will appreciate. It contains a little nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
You may also opt for a store bought fertilizer to mix into the soil prior to planting. Something specifically made for tomatoes is best. I will link what I suggest to use below this post.
Planting Tomato Seedlings into the Garden
Once your outside temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees F., it’s time to transplant your seedlings.
Plant tomato seedlings 3 feet apart. Or, if you’re transplanting into a larger pot, it needs to be at least a 24-inch pot.
Step 1. The Hole.
Dig a hole 2-3 inches deeper than the depth of the pot. You’ll want it deep enough to cover an inch or two (or 3 or 4) of the tomato seedling’s stem. Tomato stems planted beneath the soil will sprout more roots, and give your little plant a stronger foundation.
Step 2. Extra Calcium.
Next, while not necessary, I like to add some crushed up egg shells to the base of the hole. This will provide calcium to the plant as the shells decompose. I add about 1-2 large egg’s shells to each hole.
Step 3. Plant.
Remove the seedling from its pot and gently loosen the roots. Place it into the hole and fill in, packing the soil around the tomato plant with a light firmness.
Step 4. Water.
Deeply water your tomato seedlings.
Step 5. Trellis
If you haven’t already, set up your trellis system. It may be tomato cages, a store-bought trellis, or something DIY like a cattle panel trellis.
When to Mulch your Tomato Seedlings
About a week or two after transplanting, once your seedlings have gotten established, it’s time to mulch.
Apply 2-4 inches of mulch to minimize weeds and help keep the soil moist.
A good option for mulching tomato plants is straw or shredded leaves.
Did you know that growing your own tomatoes from seed is fairly simple? I’m going to show you just how easy it is! Planting from seed not only saves you money, but the selection of tomato varieties is ginormous! Here is how to start tomatoes from seed.
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link
Deciding What Variety of Tomato to Plant
Not all tomatoes are the same. The very first step to planting tomatoes, is deciding what you want and why you want it. Once you make the decision to start your plants from seed, you’ll discover that the options of tomato varieties are a little overwhelming. And amazing!
Are you wanting tomatoes to eat fresh? Slicing tomatoes for your sandwiches, or cherry tomatoes for your salads?
Maybe you want to make tomato sauce? Or tomato juice? Fried green tomatoes? Salsa? Maybe all of the above…?
You will base your tomato varieties on your needs and wants.
Also, keep in mind that tomato seeds can last 4-5 years or more when kept in a cool, dry place. When buying a package of seeds, you may only need to use a few of them, and you can save the rest for future years.
The Difference Between Determinate and Indeterminate Tomato Plants
Another decision to make before planting tomatoes is to determine if you want/need determinate or indeterminate tomato plants.
A determinate tomato plant will grow like a bush, and only reach about 5 feet tall. It has a shorter growing season, and will set it’s fruit all at one time.
An indeterminate tomato plant is more vine-like, and can grow up to 8-10 feet tall. It will need to grow on a trellis type support. It has a longer growing season, and will produce more fruit over a long period of time.
Those who have a smaller garden space, or live in an area with a shorter growing season, may want to chose a determinate plant. Whereas someone who lives in a warm climate, with a long growing season, may want to opt for the indeterminate plant.
When to Start your Tomato Seeds
You need to start your tomato seeds indoors, 6-8 weeks before your last frost. You can look online to find out when the last frost date is for your area. Personally, I like to wait 2-4 weeks after the predicted date of last frost to transplant out my young tomato plants. Just to be safe.
Chose a container to start your seeds in. It can be practically anything that you can poke a few holes in for drainage. You can use solo cups, plastic butter or sour cream containers, etc. Or I will list a few planting containers that you can purchase at the end of this post.
You may see some suggest egg cartons. Which you can totally use. But it’s such a small space, that you will need to transplant your tomatoes very soon after they germinate. Another drawback to such a small growing area is that it is very difficult to keep the soil moist. It dries out very quickly. So you’ll want to keep those things in mind when choosing your containers.
The next decision is your potting soil. Tomato seeds are very small and delicate, and cannot germinate well in a heavy garden soil. You’ll need a light and fluffy soil specifically for seed starting. Some bagged soils contain plant food, some do not. Either kind works. I personally use an organic seed starting soil, it will be listed below.
Another item that isn’t exactly necessary, but is very helpful, is a spray bottle for watering. Giving them water with a light mist from a spray bottle will help keep the seeds from sinking too deep into the fluffy soil. Make sure the bottle you use has only contained water or natural contents in the past, no chemicals. Or purchase a new one.
Lastly, you will need some way to label your containers. You can write directly onto the container you’re using, put a piece of tape on the container and write on that, label popsicle sticks, etc.
It’s Time to Plant your Tomato Seeds
Step 1. Moisten the soil.
I dump the estimated amount of seed starting soil I need into a 5 gallon bucket, add some water and mix it around. You wan the soil damp but not soaking wet. So start slow and continue to add water until you get it where you want it. When you can squeeze a ball of it together and it holds, but doesn’t drip water, it’s perfect.
Step 2. Fill Containers.
Fill the planting containers with your damp soil. Not quite to the top.
Step 3. Seeds.
Place 2-3 seeds on top of the soil in each container. Spaced apart slightly.
Step 4. Cover Seeds.
Lightly sprinkle an 1/8 of an inch of soil over the top of your seeds. Pat down gently.
Step 5. Warmth.
Find a nice warm spot to set your containers. They do best when kept around 70-80 degrees F. They will not need sunlight until after they germinate. If you don’t have a warm spot, like a water heater closet or the top of an older refrigerator, you can use a grow mat. I will list what I recommend below, if interested.
Most varieties of tomato seeds take 5-7 days to germinate, although some can take up to 14 days.
Be sure to keep the soil moist during this time. Mist the soil twice a day until germination.
After your Tomatoes Germinate
Once your tomatoes have germinated, move them to a sunny window sill. Preferably a South facing window. They will need lots of sunlight.
Your plants love the sun, and will lean towards it, so it is a good idea to rotate them at least once a day, to help keep their stems growing straight and strong.
It’s also helpful to pet your plants. Brushing your hands over them a few times a day strengthens their stems. You can also have a fan set up in the room, for some gentle airflow. But be sure it isn’t close and pointed directly at them, too much wind will damage them at this stage.
Once your tomatoes have their first 2 sets of true leaves (the ones that begin to grow after the initial ones from germination), you can thin your plants if necessary. You want only one plant per container. You will either take a pair of scissors and cut away all but one plant. Or, you can gently remove them all and transplant the others into their own pots.
If you used a seed starting soil that did not contain plant food, you now need to feed your tomatoes. I use a fish emulsion fertilizer. At a ratio of 1 tablespoon to 1 gallon of water. I use this once a week until transplant.
The tomato plants will need to be watered once a day until transplanted into the garden.
When is it Time to Transplant Tomato Seedlings into the Garden
After the date of your last Spring frost, it’s best to wait another week or two (or three) to transplant your tomatoes into the garden, just to be safe.
A week or two before that, you will need to start to “harden off” your plants. This means slowly letting them adjust to the outdoors, a little at a time. I set mine outside in the morning for an hour or so the first day, and lengthen the time by an hour each following day.
Now they’re ready to move to the garden!
Links
Here are a few Amazon links to the seed starting products I recommend:
Green beans do not need a richly composted soil or a lot of fertilizer. I usually till in Jobe’s Organic Fertilizer to the soil just before planting. And that’s it for the entire season. You can also just throw in some aged black cow, or a thin layer of compost.
Planting
When planning how much to plant, keep in mind that the estimated yield from one bush bean plant is ½ a pound, and from a pole bean plant is 1 pound.
Direct sow after all danger of frost is passed.
Plant the seeds 1-2 inches deep, spaced 3 inches apart. It’s a good idea to space your rows 2-3 feet apart, when growing bush beans. Once the seeds germinate (in about 10 days), thin to 6 inches apart. In humid climates, like here in Florida, allow more space between plants for better air flow.
If growing a pole green bean, you will need some kind of trellis for the vine to climb. I’ve found that a cattle panel held up with a few t-posts works very well.
You can sow every 2 weeks for a continual supply of green beans.
Mulch
Once your plants are an inch or two tall, it’s a good idea to mulch them. It will help maintain moisture in the soil and keep weeds to a minimum.
Leaves, pine straw or grass clippings are the best options, but straw also works. Avoid dyed wood chips or hay that contains grass seeds.
Another good option is using a weed cloth. This is something that you’ll need to put down before planting. It works great, and is reusable. I like to use the ECOgardener fabric. You just cut a small hole, plant your seed, and the fabric allows for water and airflow to keep your soil and plants happy.
Water
Green beans need to be well watered, but you need to allow the soil to dry out between watering. Too much/too frequent water will result in root rot, and you will be able to tell because your plants leaves will turn yellow.
Pests
Like all vegetables, green beans have their own set of pest problems. But typically, the earlier in the season you’re planting, the less pests you’ll be dealing with.
If I’m having a problem early on, I like to use a neem oil spray. Mix a tablespoon of Neem oil with a tablespoon of Sal Suds, then mix that into a gallon of water in a pump sprayer. Lightly spray the plants every few days, or after a hard rain.
I stop using the neem oil after the plants set buds.
At that point, if there is a problem, I will either pick off the bugs by hand, or try to use a dusting of diatomaceous earth every few days. Applied only in the late evenings, after the pollinators are no longer out. And I’m careful not to get any on open buds or flowers, if possible.
Companion planting with plants that deter bugs is another great option. I like to surround the majority of my garden beds with marigolds. Mint, basil and lavender are other great pest management plants.
Harvest
Bush beans bear faster than pole beans, with your first harvest in 45-65 days. Pole beans will be 10-15 days longer.
Pick your green beans when they are young and tender, before fully developed. You want to harvest them before the beans inside appear to protrude through the shell.
Harvest often and enjoy them fresh, or you can lightly blanch your green beans and freeze them for later. If you have a large harvest, canning them is a great option.
You can store unwashed beans in the refrigerator for up to 7 days.
Peppers are probably one of the easiest things to grow. For real. And when you plant them yourself, you have a huge range of options to chose from. So much more than you’ll ever find in a grocery store! Here’s how easy it is…
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link
Pepper Seeds
Ok, so obviously, this is where you begin. And this is actually the hardest part. You have to choose your seeds.
Last year I grew 21 different varieties… Why? Because I couldn’t choose just 5.
There are lots of places to get your seeds from. I use Baker Creek Seed Company, MI Gardener, and I’ve even ordered this pack straight from Amazon: Sweet & Hot Pepper Seeds
The next step is starting the seeds. I’ve got a whole blog post on that. So I’ll leave that here , and skip to the next phase. How to grow those peppers…
Transplanting Peppers
When it is 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost, and your soil is nice and warm (about 65 degrees or more), it’s time to transplant into the garden.
Your young pepper plants can be put directly into the garden, or planted into bigger pots.
I usually mix some aged compost into my soil prior to transplanting. Or you can also use aged black cow, or a fertilizer specific for peppers and tomatoes. I prefer Jobe’s Organics
For most varieties, pepper plants should be spaced 12-18” apart. Larger varieties can be spaced a little more.
Handle the roots gently, and plant slightly deeper than the root line. Not too deep though, because while the plant stem can sprout roots, if planted too deep, the stem can rot. I personally go no more than half an inch past the root line.
After planting, lightly water. This helps the roots to settle.
Now you’re ready to mulch. The best options are going to be things like grass clippings, leaves and straw. Avoid things like the dyed wood chips for landscaping.
You will need to set up a way to support your little plants. This can be a trellis, bamboo stake, or a tomato cage. Personally, I like the large tomato cages . They hold up well, last year after year, and support the entire plant. Plus, I like to tie a tag to the cage, marked with the variety of pepper planted there. It helps me keep track of my plants.
How to Care for Your Pepper Plants
The hardest part is over. Now is when you can relax. Pepper plants need minimal weeding, and minimal watering.
A good, deep watering once or twice a week is sufficient. If it is unusually hot and dry, they may need it once a day. But pepper plants like to dry out between drinks, so less is more when it comes to water.
Peppers don’t suffer from pests as often as other garden plants. Here in Florida, I don’t usually have any issues until mid-Summer, and even then, the issues are slight. Leaf leg bugs are the biggest problem for me. And a light dusting of food grade diatomaceous earth once a week is all that is needed.
While not 100% necessary, pruning your plants is a good idea. Trimming the bottom leaves/stems of your pepper plants allows for more air flow, and helps keep plants healthy and strong. The goal here is to keep your branches from touching the ground, the result of which will reduce disease and pests. It can also improve your yield.
Enjoy the Abundance
Now you know how to grow peppers… Get ready for more peppers than you know what to do with! I love making pepper jelly, hot sauce and salsas. Dehydrating them and making my own seasonings. And, of course, pizza toppings. The options are endless!
Not every boot is made the same. Sometimes you spend money for cute, but don’t get the function. Or find a great rubber boot, but it’s, well… plain and boring. I’ve been through dozens of boots over the years, and have compiled a list below of the good, the bad and the ugly.
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link
Best Rubber Boots – Sloggers
Ok y’all, this brand of rubber boot has so many cute designs. They are sleek, fairly lightweight and flexible. If you are looking for a nice garden boot, something to wear in the chicken coop or on rainy days, you’ve found it.
These boots are made from one solid piece of waterproof resin, so they wipe clean very easily. The insoles can be removed and machine washed, air dried. Sloggers tend to run slightly small, so it helps to size up a half size.
Sloggers are made in the U.S.A.
One thing to keep in mind; They are a lighter weight rubber resin, so they may not be ideal for heavy farm work. They will not protect your feet from horse hooves or tractor tires.
You can find Sloggers pretty much anywhere, from Amazon and Walmart, to Tractor Supply and Academy Sports.
Maybe Not the Best Rubber Boots – Western Chief
Now, these rubbers are cute. Very cute. And the amount of designs offered are great. However, in my experience, they don’t hold up to any type of farm work. And because this post is about boots for farm moms, this brand isn’t going to be recommended for that.
I have owned three different pairs of Western Chief rubber boots, and unfortunately, none of them lasted more than a few months. They get worn out quickly, start to leak, and the insole doesn’t hold up well.
However, if you are just looking for a cute rain boot to wear occasionally, for gardening or fashion purposes, this is where it’s at. They are comfortable, and fairly lightweight. You can find Western Chief almost anywhere, from Amazon to Tractor Supply.
But personally, I would not recommend this brand for hard working farm moms.
Practical Rubber Boots – Baffin
You want practical rubber boots that hold up to constant wear and are comfortable? Check out Baffin. These have a slightly higher price tag, but you get what you pay for. I have owned my Baffin rubbers for years, and never had a leak or a blister.
This is a Canadian company, started in 1979. I ordered mine from Amazon, but they are also available at places like Tractor Supply and Cabela’s. They tend to run a little small, so you will want to size up.
Baffin may not have tons of cute patterns and designs, but they are, in my opinion, an excellent and durable rubber boot for a farm mom.
Hey ya’ll, today I’m going over 5 simple tips for starting pepper seeds when you don’t have “all the things.”
You don’t need a green house, grow lights, heat mats, or anything fancy to get started.
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link
Tip #1: You can start pepper seeds in anything!
Red solo cups… egg cartons… old tupperware… Pretty much anything you can poke a few holes in the bottom of, can be your starting planter. It’s that simple.
Be sure to use a light and fluffy potting soil. The dirt from your garden will be too heavy for the seeds.
Tip #2: Pepper seeds like it hot!
Seriously, ya’ll. They germinate best in a warm spot. I stick mine on top of the fridge. Or you can use a shelf in your garage in warmer weather, a water heater closet, an outdoor storage room that stays a little warmer…
I have a shed behind my house where we keep our freezers and extra refrigerator, and that’s the place I currently use. The peppers get the warmest spot; top of the fridge.
Tip #3: Pepper seedlings need lots of sunlight!
Once your babies have germinated, set them on a sunny windowsill. A south facing window is ideal. But mine faces East and they do just fine.
They will lean towards the light, so once or twice a day it’s a good idea to rotate them, to keep them growing as straight as possible.
Not enough light will result in “leggy” seedlings. Which means the stems will stretch too tall and they can start to flop over. If, in the end, you have a few leggy ones, don’t worry! If they start to flop before it’s time to put them outside, you can repot and plant them deeper, so that most of the stem is under the soil. Peppers are one of the few plants that will grow more roots from their stems.
Bonus tip: To help them grow strong, occasionally open the window (if it’s a warm afternoon) for a little breeze. Or turn a fan on them, softly and gently blowing from a distance.
The movement will help strengthen their little stems.
You can also pet them… yes, pet them. Gently brushing your hand across the tops will help them get strong as well.
Tip #4: Pepper plants don’t like wet feet!
Don’t over water your little ones. They like their feet (roots) to dry out between waterings.
I water mine every 2-3 days, when very young, and every other day once they get bigger and start drinking more.
Check the soil every day. If it’s moist, let it be. If it’s dry, time to water.
Water deeply and thoroughly, but gently.
Once your seedlings are about 2 weeks old, you can add a little fertilizer to their water. They don’t like much, and nothing strong. I use a low dose of fish emulsion fertilizer in water, once a week, from when the seedlings are 2-3 weeks old until they are planted outside.
Tip #5: Harden’em off!
This part is so important!
If you put these delicate babies straight out into the harsh world before they’re ready, they will wither and die.
When your seedlings reach about 4-5 inches tall, or have their first 2 sets of “true leaves”, start setting them outside for an hour or two a day. It’s best to do this in the mornings or evenings, when the sun isn’t as harsh.
After a few days, slowly extend the time spent outside.
It will take about 2 weeks of doing this, then they’ll be outside full time and ready to be planted into your garden space.
There’s nothing quite like seeing your patience and care produce a beautiful little plant!
